For the last two years, every
night when I read a story to my 6 year old son , I would try and describe the visual beauty of
the Chera, Chola and Pallava reign in Tamil Nadu. A child
friendly homemade oral version of Ponniyan
selviyan, Narasimha Pallavar and the realization of a great dream - Parthiban Kannavu was simply not enough
to kindle the visual imagery in the mind of a child reared on picnic drives along
OMR, ECR and resort hotels parading as remnants
of the great heritage .
So this December , we planned a
trip to the great temples of the Chola
reign across Tiruchirapalli and Tanjore. Covering the prominent ones just to
get a glimpse of the wonders that were created more than 1000 years ago.
My son was excited about getting
on to the train.(That he is an ardent train lover would only be an
understatement). I was excited about getting back with my spouse and child to an enjoyable phase
of my student days - Trichy. And so we left for Trichy by Rockfort express one Thursday night.
Covering the temple towns of SriRangam, Thiruvanaikaval, Samayapuram,
Tanjore, Trichy, and the musical abode of Thiruvaiyar in 3 days was indeed a farfetched cry from resort bound
vacations that we were used to.
The mysticism of Indian mythology
lies in the magical blend of mysticism with reality. Huge temple complexes
surrounded by fort towns resplendent in their timeless grandeur exist as
testimonials to tales of mythology. The feeling of could it have all really
happened ? Did Andal actually marry Sri Ranganathar in this temple leaves
you wanting for more out of these pilgrimage spots.
Crowds - both tourists, historians
with scientific temper and devotees immersed in devotion throng the thresholds
of the temple leaving the administration at sea and us with some bitter sweet
moments. However the darshan of the presiding deity wipes out all the tirades
you may have stood up to in seconds. Call it positive energy within the sanctum,
power of the unknown, achieving what you set out to accomplish or simply bhakthi - the feeling of completeness is
felt by one and all exiting the premises.
Thiruvanaikkaval, Brihadeeshwara, Trichy Rockfort temple complex, Tanjore
palace stand witness to tales of shaivism sweeping the region during the Cholas
reign. Mammoth gopurams standing 20-30 ft tall, perfectly symmetrical, not
casting a shadow ,covered with intricate carvings of gods ,nature and common
man make us ponder on so many realities that time throws at us.
Equipped with knowledge more than
"modern day gadgets" the sculptors and architects breathed life into
every piece of chiseled rock. I could
not help but wonder while we snapped and whatsapped images , these pieces of
art brimming with life from lifeless stones have stood the test of time ,
invasions , cultural transformations, juvenile graffiti and much more.
History says that the civilization
brought artisans from South east Asia and across the country of India together
which is reflected in the styles adopted and blended in perfect harmony. Marathas
, took over the Chola dynasty and developed a unique identity through Saurashtrainism which thrives till date.
The thread of the linkage to other cultures is evident in a number of tourists
of South east Asian origin and Maharashtra visiting these parts as a part of
their ancestral linkage.
The highlight of the trip was the
stopover at Thiruvaiyaru - literally
translated means confluence of 5 rivers. Half expecting the great saint Thiagaraja's samadhi to be closed for
darshan, we were pleasantly greeted by the serene almost empty temple on the
banks of the river Cauvery. This is the place where the great saint went into Samadhi.
The idol of Lord Rama, who he worshipped with a showering of krithis
is kept in an abode vibrating with his melodies. The annual festival that draws throngs of
worshippers of music converge here in January. For now, the place had a small
team of boys playing their game of cricket outside a stone structure that has
given the world a religion sans caste, creed -music. Looking at the idol of
Rama,I could almost hear the great saint call out to him -"
Nagumomu Ganale... "
The taste of Tanjore is
incomplete without a mention about the cuisine. Full three course meals laden with
traditional sweets, varieties of chutneys and pickles, the hallmark of a tanjorian,
was served to perfection on plaintain leaves.
Boarding the train that night ,
my son could now name temple silhouettes etched in the darkness of the night by
their gopurams. He has his favorites now in Brihadeeshwara
followed by Thiruvanaikkaval and Srirangam .As I completed the story of
Raja raja chozhan 's dream run of conquests , his eyes visualized the kings of
yester years across the streets of Tanjore.
Yes, there is always the issue of improving
restoration , preservation and promotion of these magnificent structures. The
people could be more enlightened and civic while visiting. Littering,etching
their names on walls of historical significance, jostling, fighting, bribing -
well we could behave better in the name of a civilized society. The
administration could do with a bit more
concern for preserving than merely earning. The hygiene - Oh yes could be a lot
better. But the fact that history continues to silently shine through these dark
spots calling out to us to relive the times blurs the line between mythology,
fiction, history and time.
To more such travels in India is what we look
forward to.
